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Private Club Radio Show
378: Former Club Manager to Vineyard Innovator w/ Anthony Bilwin - von Stiehl Winery
Join us as Anthony Billwin, a seasoned hospitality professional, shares his compelling journey from managing prestigious hotels and country clubs, to becoming an innovator at von Stiehl Winery in Wisconsin. Anthony navigates us through his career shift just before the COVID-19 pandemic and the transformative developments at the winery, including the introduction of a distillery and a cidery, reflecting his unyielding passion for quality and creativity in the wine and spirits industry.
In this episode, we uncover the impressive evolution of von Stiehl, spotlighting its shift from sweet wines to high-end reds and the exciting new additions like a taste test tap system and a thriving cider taproom.
Discover the sustainable practices behind their distillery program, including the creation of grappa from leftover grape skins, and how AI-generated label designs are revolutionizing their branding strategy.
Anthony offers an insider's look at the winery's bold rebranding efforts and the launch of popular new cider flavors, promising an exciting future for von Stiehl Winery. Grab a glass and tune in for a toast to innovation and excellence in winemaking!
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Hey everybody, welcome back to the Private Club Radio Show podcast, the industry source for news, trends, updates and conversations all in the world of private golf and country clubs. Whether you're a consummate professional or brand new to the industry, welcome. We are glad you are here joining us. I'm your host, denny Corby. This is going to be a fantastic episode. I'm excited to dive in. If you have not done so already, make sure you sign up for our newsletter and head over to privateclubradiocom. If you're not signed up, you're just going to pop right up. You can't miss it. You're going to have to sign up. I mean you don't have to. You can exit out, but don't do that. Sign up for the newsletter Super important. It means the world costs absolutely nothing. This episode is going to be a ton of fun. I have a good friend, an actual good friend. I know everybody I say on the show everyone's a friend. This is actually a good friend of mine from the club industry and is now at Vaughn Steel Winery in Green Bay. We'll bring on Anthony in a moment. Talk about the amazing wines and just the transition from working in hospitality and clubs and moving over to a winery and soon to be distillery. Got a lot of cool stuff going on there. Cannot wait to dive in.
Speaker 1:Before we get to the episode, just have a quick little notes from some of our show partners here on the channel. We have our friends Member Vetting, kenneth's the Member Vetting process. As you guys, it really hasn't changed. A lot of clubs don't do good member vetting. And when we say member vetting, it's fact-based member vetting, because the traditional application process, if you really break it down, it's maybe a slight little background check and maybe a little credit check. It really doesn't give you much or tell you much about someone's behavior and characters, how their character is until now. Because Kenes member vetting has an innovative, confidential and comprehensive applicant information gathering process that provides unrivaled and unrivaled depth of information.
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Speaker 1:We have our friends Golf Life Navigators, which is an amazing platform for golf enthusiasts. It allows them to. It's eHarmony meets Zillow. It's tremendous. Golf enthusiasts can go on. They put in all the information of the club that they're looking for, what they want to spend, all the details and it spits out to them their dream clubs, mainly in the Sun Belt, but really across the entire country.
Speaker 1:If you want to learn more, head over to golflifenavigatorscom. Set up a call with Jason Becker Once again, guaranteed it's going to be awesome. We finally have our friends, concert Golf Partners, boutique owner-operators of private golf and country clubs nationwide. If you, your club, a friend's club, someone's club you know, is looking for some recapitalization, head over to ConcertGolfPartnerscom. Set up a confidential phone call with Peter Nanula guaranteed, as always, going to be a fantastic call and see if you guys are a good fit. That's what it's all about. And now it's last but not least myself, I'm one of the show partners who would have thought the Denny Corby experience magic, mind reading, comedy, crowd work. It's a blast. It's one of the most fun nights your members are going to have. Guaranteed there's excitement, there's mystery Also there. Fun nights your members are going to have guaranteed there's excitement, there's mystery. Also there's magic. Want to learn more? Head over to dennycorbycom. That's dennycorbycom, and now private club radio listeners. Let's welcome. The man, the myth, the legend, mr anthony billwin. Anthony, how's it going? Buddy not too bad.
Speaker 2:Danny man, how are you? Long time no see my friend I know it's.
Speaker 1:it's been good, I think last time I saw you. Yeah, I think we hung out when I was up in Green Bay. Yeah, yeah, that's good. Yeah, that's good. How are things? How are things?
Speaker 2:Things are good, dude, things are really good. You know, transition to the winery has been fun. I can't believe it's been almost five years now. It started just Started just before COVID hit, three days literally before COVID hit here I did the transition from Green Bay Country Club to the winery, but it's been awesome. Like you said, we're starting a distillery, we have a cidery going, you have the winery going. It's a lot of fun, man.
Speaker 1:So were you always in hospitality? Because I think you were always in hotels and hospitality and restaurants. You were at a smaller club in PA first right, weren't you at? I was at the Westmoreland Club in Pennsylvania. Weren't you at Pinehurst too, or no?
Speaker 2:Yep, yeah so my entire career has been hospitality, ever since I was about 16. So my mother worked directly for Marriott. She was an opening specialist for hotels and properties, and so that's kind of where I got the bite, so to speak, for hospitality. I and properties, and so that's kind of where I got the bite, so to speak, for hospitality. I knew hotels really wasn't the passion I wanted to go to, but I started in country clubs at 16 and played golf semi-professionally a little bit for about four years and then ended up going back to school, finished a degree, then went from Oakmont to Pinehurst, to Memphis, to back to Pennsylvania to the Westmoreland club, to the west, yeah yeah I forgot.
Speaker 1:And then eventually out here to wisconsin and then how did what? Was that whole progression? Because so, uh, when did you get more into wines? Let's, let's, let's start there, because I remember, even back, because I met you. You were at the, the westmoreland club fantastic club in, uh, northeast pa wooks, bear pa. Um, I was a member there for a bunch of years. It was just like a little too far away from me. It was like it's like 40 minutes and it's like you really can't have a good time unless you're getting like a uber or something else. You know, it's one of those you couldn't really like go a little um, but I was, I was young, but um, exactly Still cheaper than uh, the the the opposite. But um, is that where, like, the wine sort of started for you, or was it before that?
Speaker 2:No, it was before then. So, um, I went to La Cordon Bleu in Pittsburgh for hospitality management as well as culinary and we actually had classes in there. There was two separate wine classes so there was like an intro to wine. That I think was a 60 day class and honestly, I hated wine, hated wine before that class. But the way it was explained, the way it was shown, I'm nerdy by nature. That's just who I am. I love to geek out over things. So the way it was explained was more like geography and the technical side, the science side, not just hey, drink this because it tastes like this. So we went through that for 60 days and that kind of got me hooked, that I wanted to learn more.
Speaker 2:The second class that we had was a more in-depth class that was taught by a sommelier, michael Rainforth, and that was like we're going to go to France and we're going to learn every region and every grape in France and we're going to go to California and Italy and new world and old world, and that really set the tone.
Speaker 2:So when I got out of college and went to Pinehurst, that's where it solidified because they're like great, you know wine, we do a wine festival that you're going to help out with when you get to the country club. The wine program's yours, so you're going to write it, you're going to direct it, you're going to do all the wine and tapas. So we kind of pioneered it there and then it just grew. I mean you're tasting suppliers two, three, four times a month. I mean at one point in time I had a Bible. It was about a three inch or four inch thick binder that was all tasting sheets from everywhere, and that was that, to me, was the cool experience, and that really was the final hook that set it in. I said, yeah, let's, let's just keep going this way.
Speaker 1:Like what was it like at the Westmoreland Club? I love that club.
Speaker 2:It was awesome. I mean, don't get me wrong, it was hard, it was a lot of work. Right, you're a platinum and Emerald Club. I was the clubhouse manager, so basically, agm, you're running the day-to-day on it and you're a top 100 city club in the world. Your expectations are high, not just for yourself but through the members too, and I loved it. You had basically the Starbucks on acid right. We had the Nook underneath the steps where Danielle did incredible things with the coffee program and we had our own custom coffee, both decaf and regular right.
Speaker 2:So the whole exposure of everything customized at that level was incredible and honestly, I think I use that more today than almost any other lesson that I've pulled from hospitality or clubs. I use a little bit of the membership side because, again, we have a wine club. We have three separate wine clubs. That operates very similar to what we would do within a private country club. Right, we're not charging a monthly due, there's no initiation fee for the most part to get in, but there's still an obligation to the club, there's still a hospitality and there's still a communication to it. But the customization side from what I see now on the winery really is the separator for what we do.
Speaker 1:And what do you mean by the customization?
Speaker 2:So you know we're looking at a way to customize the club. But outside of that, when you come to our winery to get a tasting experience, it's not a preset selection of here's six wines. This is what you get to taste. We have 47 wines on our tasting guide so you can pick any of them. So it's a customizable, immersive education experience to where our staff is trained on all of it. They know the wines, they know the wine.
Speaker 2:Some of them know the wines better than I do or the production guys do, and it's just a cool experience that we get to tailor and customize. When they come in and you know you can come in with Michelle and you can come in a second time with a different group of people, and that experience is going to be a little bit different because it's dependent on who's there, right, so it gets tailored every time. The wine club we do a wine and cheese club so they get two bottles per quarter but we always pair it with a Wisconsin cheese, so there's a little bit of a customized option inside of there. So we just try to keep the options a little bit open. Give them some freedom of choice.
Speaker 1:And since you've been there, so you got there. What the day before the pandemic?
Speaker 2:I think we were joking about it too, because I was like oh, congrats on the new gig.
Speaker 1:And then it was like the pandemic hit three days later. I'm like, oh snap, what a time, what a time. But I mean I've just even just from watching the journey you and the winery have grown tremendously just in the past five years. I mean I don't even think there was cider and spirits, I think it was just wine when you were first there, right, when I first started we had a cider program but it was in its infancy, so it was maybe two years old.
Speaker 2:We were producing, I want to say it was around 4,000 or 5,000 gallons. Now we're at 24,000 gallons of just cider. We'll be over 30,000 predicting for next year. I mean that's growing like an absolute weed, which is awesome to see. But yeah, man, I started March 9th. Pandemic started March 12th, so it was great.
Speaker 2:But it was cool because you got to pivot right For me. I thrive in creativity, I love looking into the future to see what's coming. It was a bit of a challenge because during COVID you can't look into the future so much. It changes week to week to week. But the ability to pivot with what we did. You know how we changed tastings.
Speaker 2:I think we were one of the first wineries that were able to reopen and welcome guests back in because we changed how we did the tasting. We made sure everybody was six feet apart and no more than 20 or 30 people in our building. I think 20 was the max that we had. We tried to tailor some outside stuff. We brought the winery to people through virtual tastings and we ripped the blanket off or ripped the cover off and said if we can do it, let's do it and see what happens. And a lot of it stuck and those first two years we grew by about 15% every year. First two years it's cooled down slightly. We're about a 9% to 10% growth pattern right now, which is comfortable, definitely comfortable for us. With wine you don't want to grow too fast. You'll either grow out of inventory and you'll run out, or you'll have too much inventory and if the market cools down too much, now you're sitting on a ton of cash, so it's been a little bit more of a delicate balance.
Speaker 2:Is it still family owned? Yes, yeah, so we're technically two families. So it was founded in 1967. So we're the oldest licensed winery in the state. The Wisconsin wine industry started with Vaughn Steel Winery and it was by Dr Charles Steel, who was an actual physician in Algoma and he had orchards and he loved making wine. As a hobby he made apple and cherry wine and you know the joke is his wife got tired of him taking over the house with the wine and she gave him the ultimatum. She said either the wine goes or I go. So he found the building we're in, moved all the wine over there and then petitioned the state for the first winery license, got it. The rest is history. He sold it in 1983 to the current family, which is the Schmilings and at the time it was Bill and Sandy Schmeiling and then they sold it to their kids, eric and Brad, in 2003, and still owned by the same two brothers.
Speaker 1:That's cool, that's awesome. So what? What other types of growth and things have you have you done Like what? What other projects and cool like what? What have you been a part of that you're excited about?
Speaker 2:Well, I think for us it's a red wine program. We had it when I first started, but I think you know, with my knowledge of wine and then palate and then what we're able to do with our production team, I really think we've kind of pushed the boundaries for what a Wisconsin winery can do for high-end red wine and I think I sent you some of them, like the Alicante Boucher or like the big cabernets, like I'm sitting next to a super tuscan, which is the first blend that I did at the winery. Um, so I think that was the first thing that we really wanted to sink our teeth in to grow, because you know, if you come out here, most wisconsin winery, it's sweet wine and it's it's a wisconsin palette. Right, we drink the most brandy than any state in the US. Right, you go to Corbell and Corbell will point at half of the warehouse and say that's all Wisconsin Truth. Take the tour. 100%.
Speaker 2:True, had five, now we have nine and we have a taste test tap that we rotate through every 60 days now, kind of as a way to gauge what people like. So if we hear rumblings that they like strawberry rhubarb, we'll make a low keg inventory, like 10 keg run of strawberry rhubarb, try it on tap and if it works great, let's run it again. If it really works a second time that's going to work in wholesale, let's go ahead and make it, and make it year round. So it's. It's an interesting thing that we get to do to test the market in our own backyard, which is pretty cool. Um started a tap room so we have our own little cider bar that has a flight of our spirits. It has flight of ciders. It's literally two doors down. That thing has grown like a weed. I think we're up almost 50% this year, which it's only been open. This is its third year. So year after year we're pushing that. But again, I think ciders and the cool thing right now is the distillery. I can't wait. We have some things.
Speaker 1:now Are you going to be distilling everything?
Speaker 2:Not everything. Wisconsin's not very big on vodka and gin and we're not really interested in distributing out of state right now. So it's what do we want to do in state? We have a farmer just north of us who is open to growing rye and wheat and stuff like that and he'll be able to mill it himself. But it's going to be bourbon, it'll be rye. We're all brown guys. All of us are brown guys.
Speaker 1:And brandies.
Speaker 2:It only makes sense to do brandy because we have grapes it just kind of makes sense. And then grappa because we always have a lot of red must or red skins left over. Instead of just pitching them and composting them, can we reuse them for another application, which would be Grappa, and then we'll oak age it. We have a huge oak program. I think we have 300, 320 barrels on site right now. That's a lot of barrels. Yeah, a couple, two, three.
Speaker 1:A couple, two, three, a couple two, three of them there. But no, so I'm holding right now because I saved it, because you sent me six bottles, two cabs, which were the first one was fantastic. I'm still saving this one, I'm probably going to have it tomorrow, but we liked all of them. It's very rare. They were all very and I'm not just saying that because I frankly don't care If I didn't like them. I'm like I'll flat out tell you, because everyone's palate's different too, even the, even the lights and the whites. We we're not big like white pete they were very good. The you sent uh, the, uh, the alberino yep that was good, that was very good.
Speaker 1:The blueberry was dangerous, very dangerous. I think it was the alcante all the alicante bouchette like that was a, I think I don't.
Speaker 1:I think that one was a little earthy yep, I think that was the earthy one. Um, then the old, old, old vines in that was good, um, but yeah, I think, just like the, the, the bouchette everyone call. Yeah, I hate pronouncing words, I don't know how to pronounce, but I think that was the only one. We're like, okay, like we were, you know, to picky. If anything, they're all surprisingly good. I shouldn't say surprisingly, but you know you, you sometimes you go to some of these you're like, all right, but no, they're all really good wines.
Speaker 2:Yeah Well thanks, man, and it's you know, the funny story is when I was looking to transition out of clubs and I was getting recruited to go to Von Steele, the headhunter called me and she's like hey, there's a winery in Wisconsin that I think you're going to be perfect for. They want to interview you and I remember telling her absolutely not, it's a Wisconsin winery. Because when I was at the club I would have distributors come in and they say, hey, I want let's put local juice in. No, absolutely not. It's like sweet, it's fruit. I don't want to do it.
Speaker 2:So then I did the interview, finally came in, did the interview and I walked through the property and it's like, oh okay, you're legit, like this isn't just some sweet fruit wine, like cherry winery. I mean, at the time I think we had just over 60 tanks. We were doing a hundred thousand gallons. They had a solid program already with single varietals. Now the reese thing they're making since the late 90s, that's always around 90 points. It's usually always a gold medal almost every year, probably the most award-winning wine that we have, other than the cherry wine which is the OG. So I mean that kind of opened my eyes to what could like, what we could really do, and I think we've just pushed it even more since then.
Speaker 1:And that cherry wine. Is that the cherry?
Speaker 2:bounce. No, so the, the original wine for the state of Wisconsin, is sweet cherry. It's a cool. For us it's a cool white bottle. So when Dr Steele used to make it he used to plaster wrap the bottle to help keep the light out and it was kind of a calling card because he was a doctor. So it's like a niche package which was really cool.
Speaker 2:That's cool, and he did that for probably 10 or 15 years, even when they sold the winery in 83, bill and Sandy kept up with it with a little bit. We don't do it anymore. It is just it's too time consuming, way too labor intensive. We can't do it for 1500 cases anyways. So, but we have a cool white sleeve. So the cherry and then the dry cherry, but the cherry balance is unique to us.
Speaker 1:It's a little bit different and then the dry cherry, but the cherry bounce is unique to us. It's a little bit different. So what? Yeah, so that's one. I didn't, we didn't open it yet Cause I wasn't quite sure and I wanted to wait for the interview. So what is the cherry bounce Open?
Speaker 2:it. So it's a cherry bomb. I'm going to tell you right now it's a cherry bomb but it's 20 and a half percent alcohol. So it's more like a liqueur. It's borderline, like not legal wine, but it's right at that top end, like 21% or more is considered alcohol or a spirit. So we're like right on the line.
Speaker 2:But the cool thing is, so we make sweet cherry wine, right, but then we used to send it down to Great Lakes Distilling. He would make cherry brandy, ship it back and we would proof the cherry brandy down with more sweet cherry wine to get it to that 20 and a half. And then we Solera age it. So it goes into a 400 gallon French oak cask and then every year we take half out, put the new half in, stir it and let it go. So the bottle that you have has it should be nine years.
Speaker 2:It's nine different vintages in that bottle. Super potent. Like you don't feel the alcohol, you are not going to feel the 20%. Please don't drink the bottle at once, you might not get up. I'm just going to tell you that right now. But it's a versatile wine and you do it for dessert, you do it over cheesecake, over ice cream. I make pancakes at home with it, but you know, old fashions treat it like brandy. You can make old fashions or a different version of Manhattan's with them, and we actually use it as a liqueur in cocktails.
Speaker 1:Do you, are you just in Wisconsin, or do you ship everywhere?
Speaker 2:So we ship to 29 different states if it's ordered through VonSteelcom, but distribution wise and wholesale it's just Wisconsin and then the upper peninsula in Michigan right now.
Speaker 1:So are you in any of the clubs uh up in, up in up in Wisconsin?
Speaker 2:I don't know. I hate to say I don't know, cause I run the wholesale. I don't know, antonio, I know we've made a couple of plays down in Milwaukee for some clubs. I think blue round or Blue Mound was one Milwaukee Country Club. I know we approach, but again, it's one of those things where wine is so finicky based on culture and who drinks it. If you have Chicagoans who love dry red, they're not going to drink the sweet wine and a lot of people in the state still have that stigma that Von Steele is still just sweet wine. So we're trying to get over that education hump first. Um have done an education with kathy collins through the cmaa. I think I my first or second year there. We did like a wine education. Um, yeah, I think it was at ozaki country club. I don't remember which one it was at, but we're working on it. We'll just say we're working on it, but if any of you club guys are watching who know me in wisconsin, give me a call. I mean, let's get this going for sure we have to.
Speaker 1:You have to plug good stuff. It's actually good stuff. Um, what's what's in the works? What? What do you got cooking for the future? What are you guys excited about?
Speaker 2:so we have this experimental series wine, um, that we did year. So one of the common questions that we get on a tour is what does oak do to wine? And you can explain it. But it's kind of technical, it's hard to I don't want to say dumb it down, but it's really hard to convey what it actually does Other than say it adds tannins, it can soften the wine and it adds flavor, right, Like that's basic. But then there's always a hundred questions after that.
Speaker 2:So we sourced Cabernet from Howell Mountain and then we had so same grape, same block, same vineyard three different oak barrels. So one was a Redoux barrel that's mostly made for Chardonnay, that adds acid. Then there's a Tonellery O, that's a French oak from the Transai forest adds a little bit of complexity. And then there's a gamba barrel which is like the Cadillac of barrels. They're about $1,200 a piece. We buy them right off the gamba family in Italy and they are super complex to wine. So we did that as a flight experience and it's still in the winery now until the stuff is gone. So we have a second wave of that coming up, which we did is from Horse Heaven Hills in Washington, so it's Cabernet. We got the fruit from Washington state and it's in four different barrels. So that's experiment number one. That for us, we're wine geeks, so that's a hundred. That's going to be awesome.
Speaker 2:The second part of that is going to be the distillery. You know getting our own stuff up and going and being able to produce our own brandy, putting our own stamp and all that stuff on it. And then I can't wait for new cider flavors. So we're working on peach lavender. We put it in the tap room. I think 12 kegs and I think they sold out today and that's inside of two weeks. So that's been incredible. We rebranded. So rebranding is always funny, it's always fun. Thank God I'm not the one doing it, that's our owner brand, because it's a lot of work, it's a legwork, but it's been awesome to see that come to fruition. And changing the labels on all the bottles and, you know, being involved a little bit more in that creative process and it's we have so much going on.
Speaker 1:I mean I can keep going, but I don't want to pour everybody what. What it's like, what. What style are you going for the labels? I know like that's a thing, like there's like. I know, like me and my wife, when we go pick out wine, it's something, it's a lot of like label base like that looks fun like well, and that's the bridge that we're trying to cross, right, because it's it's so.
Speaker 2:We make 47 wines. I probably have 60 wines on property right now, some that are just sitting in bottle or in barrel that we haven't launched yet. So the challenge for a winery is to create a family. Right, we can't do a fun label on a Cabernet. You can, but it kind of gets lost, right? Nobody really knows what it is, they don't understand it, so they don't buy it because they don't see the varietal on it. And you can't really do the same thing with fruit.
Speaker 2:So we tried to come up with like a good, best and better category for the labels and then put each section of wines in that. So fruit wines might go to good label and that'll be more AI driven artwork based on the flavor profile of the wine. And that'll be more AI driven artwork based on the flavor profile of the wine. So let's say it's a Niagara wine and Niagara is super grapey but a little bit of tropical fruit into it too. So the AI artwork is generating a label that will show the fruit characteristics and like a cool background to it. Or the Sassy Sangria that we make same thing like a tropical theme type label, which is really cool.
Speaker 2:Some of them are way off the left field, so we're still tweaking them, um. But then we have, uh, like the good category, which would be more of a what we'd call a vinifera or a varietal label that'll have the logo. So our new logo is a bullseye that just says von steel, um, and then I'll just have like the varietal underneath and then we're I think we have our best labels, kind of solidified, but I'm gonna keep that one under wraps until we get them officially made. Those are awesome. Those are gonna be all right. May have some felt or a little red, little red cloth on them, who knows you mean like texture?
Speaker 1:oh yeah, oh, textured labels get, oh well, and that's the kicker, so we get rated.
Speaker 2:Every year I send wines in every year to get, and that's the kicker. So we get rated every year. I send wines in every year to get rated because that's kind of our benchmark and we get. You usually get rated based on, you know, your taste or your flavor profile. Is it kind of varietally correct, Is it good, Is it balanced? And then you always get rated on packaging. And packaging could be the bottle label, cork, the capsule that goes on it, Everything. And packaging could be the bottle label, cork, the capsule that goes on it. Everything gets rated in packaging and we usually are just under where we'd want to be. So I think if there's a little bit more texture and maybe some gold foil or a little bit more foil on the label, the packaging will get a little more higher end for those wines, which is what we're looking for. So we'll see.
Speaker 1:Whenever we get it done, I'll shoot you a bottle. Oh, oh oh virtual wine tasting.
Speaker 2:That's what I'm hearing let's do it.
Speaker 1:so let's do it. Mr billwin, I want to thank you so much for coming on. I I love learning about you the wines, this is so good. Thank you for sharing. If anybody wants to learn more, head on over to vonstielcom V-O-N-S-T-I-E-H-Lcom. You're also on LinkedIn as well. Anthony Bilwin, thank you so much for coming. I really appreciate it.
Speaker 2:No, thanks for hosting man, thanks for the invite and always man. Anytime you need something, give a holler.
Speaker 1:Hope you all enjoyed that episode. If you'd like to learn more about Vaughn Steele, head on over to vaughnsteelecom V-O-N-S-T-I-E-H-Lcom. Vaughn Steele what a name. If you're enjoying the content, make sure you like, share, subscribe it means the world. It costs absolute nothing. If you're not signed up for our newsletter, privateclubradiocom, the alert pops right up. You sign up there. That's this episode. I'm your host, Denny Corby. Until next time, catch on the flippity-flip.
